Our challenge was to ride 500 km across beautiful Costa Rica in aid of 'Dignity in Dementia' at Poole Hospital from 3-12 April. Back home and mission accomplished, we are publishing below our daily diary and photos as quickly as we can sort out the photos!
Click on any photo to enlarge it.
Click on any photo to enlarge it.
The ride today is described as: a tough day, which includes a fun hilly section, technical downhill and one last climb. They weren’t wrong, apart from the fun bit.
An early start - up at 04.00, breakfast at 05.00, cereals, toast, fruit, juices, coffee.
On the road by 05.50 after taking the tents down. Oh how I wish I had paid more attention to taking down the tent, it would have been a real help when putting it up later.
Again we made our way back to Playa del Coco. This time via a route which the day before had taken approximately 3.5 hours, today it took us 15 minutes!!!
We stopped for a look at the variety of bicycles propped on the pavement outside an impressive Liberian church. They were part of a festival in the town, but all was quiet at that time in the morning – no trick cyclists!
An early start - up at 04.00, breakfast at 05.00, cereals, toast, fruit, juices, coffee.
On the road by 05.50 after taking the tents down. Oh how I wish I had paid more attention to taking down the tent, it would have been a real help when putting it up later.
Again we made our way back to Playa del Coco. This time via a route which the day before had taken approximately 3.5 hours, today it took us 15 minutes!!!
We stopped for a look at the variety of bicycles propped on the pavement outside an impressive Liberian church. They were part of a festival in the town, but all was quiet at that time in the morning – no trick cyclists!
Past the beach where we started then almost immediately off road…and that’s how it stayed for most of the day.
What appeared to be a white gravel track was actually a fairly major thoroughfare. All manner of vehicles used it from vans, to mopeds, two stroke motorbikes (fizzies) to large trucks. It was dry and dusty, but the hills were manageable. Even so you had to have a watchful eye as it was impossible not to ride in the equivalent of the gutter, not that the roads had them. The camber of the road dipped so sharply it was there or the centre, and with large trucks hurtling in both directions and everyone trying to avoid the pot holes and large boulders, the options were limited.
What appeared to be a white gravel track was actually a fairly major thoroughfare. All manner of vehicles used it from vans, to mopeds, two stroke motorbikes (fizzies) to large trucks. It was dry and dusty, but the hills were manageable. Even so you had to have a watchful eye as it was impossible not to ride in the equivalent of the gutter, not that the roads had them. The camber of the road dipped so sharply it was there or the centre, and with large trucks hurtling in both directions and everyone trying to avoid the pot holes and large boulders, the options were limited.
Along the route were saw tantalising views of the volcanoes, the direction of our ride over the course of the next two days. We stopped to refuel and to take photographs. There was a never ending ‘cookie’ assortment, sweet or savoury and apples. We snacked with impunity, knowing (hoping) the calories would be utilised, burned off and not stored!
The road surface changed, from white gravel to sand coloured gravel. Sign posts told us how far we had come and pointed to where we were going. It didn't help, the hills had become more frequent and intense – we had been warned.
It was hot, very hot and we were weary. It was difficult to assess how much fluid to drink, we were still acclimatising. We had probably not had sufficient fluid the previous day, the heat and exhaustion from the ride and the long flights were taking their toll. It was just after 10.00 and we had been riding for over four hours. One of the team needed help. A refuelling stop at a junction. Straight on was up, right was down. The casualty was whisked away for medical treatment and a rest.
We turned right, and down, we went down and on tarmac too….then gravel.
It was hot, very hot and we were weary. It was difficult to assess how much fluid to drink, we were still acclimatising. We had probably not had sufficient fluid the previous day, the heat and exhaustion from the ride and the long flights were taking their toll. It was just after 10.00 and we had been riding for over four hours. One of the team needed help. A refuelling stop at a junction. Straight on was up, right was down. The casualty was whisked away for medical treatment and a rest.
We turned right, and down, we went down and on tarmac too….then gravel.
It was just a little scary, numerous bends and it was fast, but once you let go of the brakes and enjoyed the speed it was exhilarating. A little more tarmac then more off road up to the wind turbines. We had seen them in the distance from the transfer bus to Playa del Coco and JC had promised we would cycle past them.
At the top a stop - to mend a puncture! No, not me this time.
At the top a stop - to mend a puncture! No, not me this time.
Arriving at a small town we rolled up at a restaurant where we met the bus and JC, Beto and Margarita made lunch, while Andy and Mark quizzed Anna about the route for the afternoon, hills again? Well some. How many is some? Um......lots!
No matter where we were the crew always made a feast. It was always beautifully presented, pineapples melons, cold meats, cheeses, salads, tomatoes and freshly juiced, fruit juice, this time made by the restaurant, oh so refreshing. Always on china plates, always on seats and, except on one occasion, at tables. A long lunch and time to rest before we set off again.
There is only one photograph of this section. The road surface - an illustration of smooth compared to what was to come. It was ALL off road and the most arduous and occasionally frightening section of the day and perhaps the whole trip with one exception. Once again it started as a fairly creditable track used by small vehicles, mopeds and two stroke fizzies. Some of the mopeds transported families, father driving, mother passenger, holding a very young shawl wrapped baby, toddler between father's legs, all helmet 'lite'.
We followed this track for kilometer after kilometer. The more kilometers we rode the more I became convinced the track doubled as a river bed during the rainy season (which would start in a couple of weeks). Huge boulders, slabs of rock, gravel, shale and grit; they can't have got there any other way. I can't decide if it was an advantage that most of this section was down hill or if this added to the truly gruesome nature of the ride.
At times it was impossible to control the speed of your descent. We were often so busy picking a pathway through the obstacles that, in truth you really hoped for the best, and that sheer luck would prevent you from falling off. As we had left the bus behind with the casualty to seek medical care and in reality there was absolutely no way a vehicle could follow us over this terrain, we were literally on our own.
We followed this track for kilometer after kilometer. The more kilometers we rode the more I became convinced the track doubled as a river bed during the rainy season (which would start in a couple of weeks). Huge boulders, slabs of rock, gravel, shale and grit; they can't have got there any other way. I can't decide if it was an advantage that most of this section was down hill or if this added to the truly gruesome nature of the ride.
At times it was impossible to control the speed of your descent. We were often so busy picking a pathway through the obstacles that, in truth you really hoped for the best, and that sheer luck would prevent you from falling off. As we had left the bus behind with the casualty to seek medical care and in reality there was absolutely no way a vehicle could follow us over this terrain, we were literally on our own.
Finally at the bottom we reached a large stream and stopped to recover. The tight grip, constant jolting and vibrating was affecting our hands despite the protection of padded gloves. Our arms and shoulders ached from the constant impact.
At the stream........
At the stream........
...some took the opportunity to fish, while others didn't, and Daren rode to the opposite bank, doing a feasibility study to test the depth of the water, then took his top off. Something he did every afternoon. He went home with a deep, dark tan while the rest of us had some very peculiar tan (stripes) lines.
Riding across the stream we were on our way, once again up hill. However we were reassured by JC who promised that, after crossing the next stream we would be on the home straight. GOOD.
Have I mentioned JC's calculation of distance before? It's actually worth a second mention. JC struggles to accurately estimate distance!!
Once at the top of the hill the track did level off. We had more views of volcanoes and the rugged scenery of the Guanacaste region. On and on it went then the river crossing and the home straight.
Only it wasn't really. We had stopped for a drink and refuel on the little bridge and to let two young lads on two-stroke fizzies pass us. While waiting for one of them to restart his bike after repeatedly stalling it (how embarrassing) we nonchalantly discussed the end of the day and how we would be rewarded with a cold beer or glass of wine (for Mark). But what JC had omitted to mention was the long, steep, spiteful and punishing hill that started immediately on crossing the river - and at that stage hidden by a bend in the road. The noise and kerfuffle made by the two inexperienced bike riders damn near gave away JC's secret. We should have guessed.
Have I mentioned JC's calculation of distance before? It's actually worth a second mention. JC struggles to accurately estimate distance!!
Once at the top of the hill the track did level off. We had more views of volcanoes and the rugged scenery of the Guanacaste region. On and on it went then the river crossing and the home straight.
Only it wasn't really. We had stopped for a drink and refuel on the little bridge and to let two young lads on two-stroke fizzies pass us. While waiting for one of them to restart his bike after repeatedly stalling it (how embarrassing) we nonchalantly discussed the end of the day and how we would be rewarded with a cold beer or glass of wine (for Mark). But what JC had omitted to mention was the long, steep, spiteful and punishing hill that started immediately on crossing the river - and at that stage hidden by a bend in the road. The noise and kerfuffle made by the two inexperienced bike riders damn near gave away JC's secret. We should have guessed.
The hill was a test of endurance, nerve, guts, determination, self control and psychology. It rose steeply from the outset. Constructed in sand and grit if you didn't get the momentum going from the start it was oh so difficult to balance, get a grip (of your senses) and pedal.
It's at times like this you play mind games, digging deeper than you have ever dug before, while having a personal and private argument about, what the heck you are doing, why you are doing it, who you are doing it for, and one more revolution for all those folk back home who dug deep too, to support you in this challenge.
We tried really hard to cycle all the way up but discovered it was just as hard to walk it pushing your bike. We got back on near to the top and rode again
It's at times like this you play mind games, digging deeper than you have ever dug before, while having a personal and private argument about, what the heck you are doing, why you are doing it, who you are doing it for, and one more revolution for all those folk back home who dug deep too, to support you in this challenge.
We tried really hard to cycle all the way up but discovered it was just as hard to walk it pushing your bike. We got back on near to the top and rode again
Waiting for everyone to catch up, which we did, JC told us about the Guanacaste Tree, the Pasty Tree. The national tree of Costa Rica, locally named for the shape of it's seed pods.
And so onwards, this time it really was the final stretch, not just round the bend as JC said, but about another two or three kilometers. In the grand scheme of today's ride a mere hop, skip and a jump over rough and stoney ground.
And so onwards, this time it really was the final stretch, not just round the bend as JC said, but about another two or three kilometers. In the grand scheme of today's ride a mere hop, skip and a jump over rough and stoney ground.
Finally, but finally we reached the end and the smoothest tarmac road you ever could wish for. Smooth enough to kiss demonstrated Daren.
Really from here it was just a short ride to the meet the bus, load the bikes and transfer to the campsite. We waited mindlessly staring at nothing in particular not even the view .....and Daren got out the Frisbee!
Really from here it was just a short ride to the meet the bus, load the bikes and transfer to the campsite. We waited mindlessly staring at nothing in particular not even the view .....and Daren got out the Frisbee!
Today we had been to a place far beyond exhaustion. A place where nothing about you cooperates or coordinates and your arms and legs are under the control of another being. A place where your mind drifts to unrelated topics, most involving food and/or the invention of new expletives and in some cases the utterance of some very well known already.
Throughout it all there was a team camaraderie and humour that peaked and troughed and saw us through. We thought that was our lot for the day we could pack up now, go and r-e-l-a-x.
How naive were we!
Distance 70 kilometres, total ascent =1200, surface = 20% paved 80% dirt.
Throughout it all there was a team camaraderie and humour that peaked and troughed and saw us through. We thought that was our lot for the day we could pack up now, go and r-e-l-a-x.
How naive were we!
Distance 70 kilometres, total ascent =1200, surface = 20% paved 80% dirt.
After a short drive we arrived at camp two. Exteriors can be deceptive. The place bore no resemblance to the pretty little Swiss Chalet it was attempting to replicate.
Although the site did have wonderful views and if you were quick, a spectacular sunset. But having used up all our 'quickness' during the day, we weren't quite quick enough - and after all, a sunset from anywhere in the world looks the same in a photograph.
It was windy and cold and we were tired. However no sleeping inside, that was a large, airy and echoing hall with birds flying in and out, so where were the tents?
We put the tents up in the howling wind and darkness. I said earlier I had wished we had paid more attention when we took them down. How can a tent be so complicated? I am sure it had more bits than we started with and just how do they fit together. Obviously we were not to be trusted. JC and Luisca might have been concerned that Penny would take off 'kite surfing' across the site, which was on quite a steep slope, but I think they were more concerned that they may never see their tent again whether Penny was attached or not.
We had the fastest lesson ever in tent erection, and didn't really need to do anything apart from run around looping the canvas over the pegs. Magic. Now off to find the showers.
We had two goes at this. Unfortunately the showers were not adjacent or even anywhere near the 'Swiss chalet' but up a 200 yard slope. No that's the boys, or Banos Hombres.
Back down the path to the next block to find the girls - locked. What does a girl do in situation where a shower is called for but the facilities are lacking.
"Don't worry guys it only us we're coming in". They were too preoccupied to notice the invasion or hear us coming in above the shouting. The showers were basic, very basic but so much better than wet wipes we were expecting. But they were absolutely freezing cold. We traded places when they'd finished and showered while the guys laughed, delighted at the squeals from the three of us.
It was windy and cold and we were tired. However no sleeping inside, that was a large, airy and echoing hall with birds flying in and out, so where were the tents?
We put the tents up in the howling wind and darkness. I said earlier I had wished we had paid more attention when we took them down. How can a tent be so complicated? I am sure it had more bits than we started with and just how do they fit together. Obviously we were not to be trusted. JC and Luisca might have been concerned that Penny would take off 'kite surfing' across the site, which was on quite a steep slope, but I think they were more concerned that they may never see their tent again whether Penny was attached or not.
We had the fastest lesson ever in tent erection, and didn't really need to do anything apart from run around looping the canvas over the pegs. Magic. Now off to find the showers.
We had two goes at this. Unfortunately the showers were not adjacent or even anywhere near the 'Swiss chalet' but up a 200 yard slope. No that's the boys, or Banos Hombres.
Back down the path to the next block to find the girls - locked. What does a girl do in situation where a shower is called for but the facilities are lacking.
"Don't worry guys it only us we're coming in". They were too preoccupied to notice the invasion or hear us coming in above the shouting. The showers were basic, very basic but so much better than wet wipes we were expecting. But they were absolutely freezing cold. We traded places when they'd finished and showered while the guys laughed, delighted at the squeals from the three of us.
Invigorated we returned down the path in the dark to a beer/wine and snacks before supper. Rice, beans, beef and fruit. In bed by 20.30.
I would like to say it was a restful night but the wind blew constantly and flapped the tent against the person on the windward side. Even though we were exhausted sleep was intermittent and we awoke the next morning, at 04.00 to the challenge of the longest ride and highest ascent of the whole challenge - the ride to the Arenal Volcano.
Umm perhaps we can snatch 10 minutes on the bus.
I would like to say it was a restful night but the wind blew constantly and flapped the tent against the person on the windward side. Even though we were exhausted sleep was intermittent and we awoke the next morning, at 04.00 to the challenge of the longest ride and highest ascent of the whole challenge - the ride to the Arenal Volcano.
Umm perhaps we can snatch 10 minutes on the bus.