Our challenge was to ride 500 km across beautiful Costa Rica in aid of 'Dignity in Dementia' at Poole Hospital from 3-12 April. Back home and mission accomplished, we are publishing below our daily diary and photos as quickly as we can sort out the photos!
Click on any photo to enlarge it.
Click on any photo to enlarge it.
A new day, we had feasted well on scrambled eggs, rice and beans, fruit and fruit juice and coffee for breakfast. Then into the bus for the short transfer back to the finish point from the previous evening, where the bikes were unloaded from the bus.
Yesterday's exhaustion behind us, it really couldn't be as bad today. We were feeling positive and ready for action.
As a team we were almost at full complement. The casualty from the previous day was back, re-hydrated, and back on form. Unfortunately someone else had picked up a chest infection. He spent the day resting on the bus and improving his Spanish with Luisca, Beto and Margarita. Fortunately he was well enough to join us all later in the trip.
Yesterday's exhaustion behind us, it really couldn't be as bad today. We were feeling positive and ready for action.
As a team we were almost at full complement. The casualty from the previous day was back, re-hydrated, and back on form. Unfortunately someone else had picked up a chest infection. He spent the day resting on the bus and improving his Spanish with Luisca, Beto and Margarita. Fortunately he was well enough to join us all later in the trip.
It started with the biggest climb of the trip up to the continental divide (791 mountains).
You are by now familiar with our plight so forgive me, allow me time to explain, this was not one big hill and then flat. "Of course not" you say "It went on for kilometer after punishing kilometer" Correct. Hour upon hour and this is what we were cycling on....
You are by now familiar with our plight so forgive me, allow me time to explain, this was not one big hill and then flat. "Of course not" you say "It went on for kilometer after punishing kilometer" Correct. Hour upon hour and this is what we were cycling on....
......this is how is looked.
......and how it went in action.
......and how it went in action.
But along the way there were children making their way to school on roads that weren't really roads. There was a very major road building project cutting across swathes of land near to their simple houses. Gigantic machinery lumbered along far into the distance. The impact, already affecting their lives was profound. I cannot imagine what effect the approaching rainy season would have upon them.
However at this time their uniforms were worn proudly and without exception they all waved and called 'hola'. The Cost Ricans really are very smiley, happy people, it must be all the sunshine. They have an obvious love and pride for their country. There is very little rubbish or litter, in fact it was noticeable how they went out of their way to clear up and leave the countryside as pristine as they found it.
However at this time their uniforms were worn proudly and without exception they all waved and called 'hola'. The Cost Ricans really are very smiley, happy people, it must be all the sunshine. They have an obvious love and pride for their country. There is very little rubbish or litter, in fact it was noticeable how they went out of their way to clear up and leave the countryside as pristine as they found it.
We were rewarded at the top of a steep climb, not only with a cookie stop, but with a glimpse of a traditional Guanacaste Sabaneros, (Costa Rican cowboy) and his dog. It made all the efforts of the morning so much more worthwhile - we were seeing the real Costa Rica.
But it wasn't all hills. There were also stunning views across to the volcanoes, the end point of our journey today, and we saw the attractive cattle for which the region is famous (which bear an uncanny resemblance to Jar Jar Binks from Star Wars don't you think?).
But it wasn't all hills. There were also stunning views across to the volcanoes, the end point of our journey today, and we saw the attractive cattle for which the region is famous (which bear an uncanny resemblance to Jar Jar Binks from Star Wars don't you think?).
And finally tarmac. The hills had not finished with us yet but we were no longer off-road. Tarmac, smooth, smooth tarmac. Which meant we could go faster too.
However throughout the off-road section I had been plagued by my chain coming off. JC had adjusted it but still it came off and at the most inconvenient of places. It continued when on the road. I eventually put it down to tiredness, operator error and a heavy foot when operating the gear change. Each time the bus would stop (I was incapable of replacing my chain), out would jump Beto, fix the chain and off I would go until the next time.
Each time I would thank Beto profusely. I was embarrassed that it kept happening; I wanted to be independent but couldn't fix it. Each time he would smile and say "Mucho Gusto". Having little Spanish I interpreted this as 'too much power', don't push so hard when you change gear. I tried and eventually mastered it. Gears had been a source of concern during the months of training.
It was only later that I found out that quiet Beto was not telling me to use less effort but he was simply replying "gladly" to my words of thanks!
However throughout the off-road section I had been plagued by my chain coming off. JC had adjusted it but still it came off and at the most inconvenient of places. It continued when on the road. I eventually put it down to tiredness, operator error and a heavy foot when operating the gear change. Each time the bus would stop (I was incapable of replacing my chain), out would jump Beto, fix the chain and off I would go until the next time.
Each time I would thank Beto profusely. I was embarrassed that it kept happening; I wanted to be independent but couldn't fix it. Each time he would smile and say "Mucho Gusto". Having little Spanish I interpreted this as 'too much power', don't push so hard when you change gear. I tried and eventually mastered it. Gears had been a source of concern during the months of training.
It was only later that I found out that quiet Beto was not telling me to use less effort but he was simply replying "gladly" to my words of thanks!
We had left the Guanacaste region and were now in the Northern zone, where we had our first glimpse of lake Arenal. The lake we were to ride from one end to the other.
Before embarking on the exhilarating descent a chance to occupy the whole of the main road for a group photograph.
During the morning the skies had darkened and it had threatened rain. There were a couple of light showers which were refreshing, it was mid morning and the temperature was rising. The horizon was a little misty as a result but the view of the lake, a real boost. Despite it's obvious length, and we were to ride to the farthest point, we had made progress and were on our way to the Arenal Volcano.
Making our way along the lake shore through numerous small towns it was obvious we were cycling into a more tourist area of the region.
Cafes and restaurants advertising what they had to offer, you just had to follow the 'sings'. We didn't.
Cafes and restaurants advertising what they had to offer, you just had to follow the 'sings'. We didn't.
Lunch. By the side of Lake Arenal.
An ideal spot for twitchers, head scratchers, nappers...... and for checking in at work!
An ideal spot for twitchers, head scratchers, nappers...... and for checking in at work!
Another feast, guacamole, refried beans, cheese, cold meat, tachos, wraps and on it goes. All prepared by JC, Beto, Margarita and Luisca and Dignity helped too.
Recreating and serving pineapple and melon at home Costa Rica style does not seem to recreate the taste. There is very little comparison in taste to the unripened fruit which travels thousands of miles, in large containers to reach our supermarkets, where we are encouraged to 'ripen at home'. There is no substitute for the flavour of a fruit, ripened by the sun and eaten in it's country of origin. Outside in the sun.
I had always thought that pineapples grow on trees. Thinking about it of course they don't, pineapples are far to heavy for trees.
They grow on small bushes with long, sharp, leaves fairly close to the ground.
They grow on small bushes with long, sharp, leaves fairly close to the ground.
In huge fields. That spread for miles.
Reluctantly we left the lake and cycled through the lushness of the lake shore.
Reluctantly we left the lake and cycled through the lushness of the lake shore.
So lush that you only caught glimpses of the lake through the vegetation. The road undulated and the ups were rewarded with long glides down too.
The signs advertising Toad Hall were placed many, many kilometers in advance. So far ahead that we were beginning to doubt that the place really existed. Their advertising campaign certainly worked. It's not as if you wanted to go in but as there had a been such a big build up, you felt you ought too.And anyway the bus parked up for a drink and cookie stop so we all stopped too.
It turned out to be the only souvenir hunting opportunity of the trip.
The signs advertising Toad Hall were placed many, many kilometers in advance. So far ahead that we were beginning to doubt that the place really existed. Their advertising campaign certainly worked. It's not as if you wanted to go in but as there had a been such a big build up, you felt you ought too.And anyway the bus parked up for a drink and cookie stop so we all stopped too.
It turned out to be the only souvenir hunting opportunity of the trip.
On the bridge crossing the end of the lake it was possible to stand in awe and look at the vastness of it all. We had ridden from the top of the lake along its shores, and the Arenal Volcano was now firmly within sight.
We were promised a dip in natural hot springs at a camp near the volcano and our camp. The volcano was within 'touching' distance now; it can't be far. Look for Luisca and his bus.
We were promised a dip in natural hot springs at a camp near the volcano and our camp. The volcano was within 'touching' distance now; it can't be far. Look for Luisca and his bus.
We passed many venues advertising hot springs, seriously, many venues. All a little further on, up mainly (and down) hills. For tired legs and weary bodies it seemed to go on and on. The elation of reaching the bridge had worn thin and we just wanted it to end. When finally, there was Luisca and his bus waving us over. The camp is at the end of the road (off-road) but it was a short stretch. We rolled onto the camp site to the cheers and raised beers of Michael, Daren, Matt and JC who had made it 45 minutes earlier.
Distance = 82 kilometers, total ascent =1530, 70% paved 30% dirt.
Distance = 82 kilometers, total ascent =1530, 70% paved 30% dirt.
We just needed to wait for the others, then to the hot springs for a shower and relaxing dip. The tents were pitched so we didn't even have to do that. Only one thing to do, join the guys with a cold, cold beer.
Actually the campsite did have a shower and a toilet. Mixed, but we were getting used to this now. However the door to each cubicle was constructed of barely opaque vanity glass and the toilet kitted out with the latest must have accessory, a giant plunger!
The trip to the hot pools was a short three minute walk across the site, unless you are Penny who did it twice because she forgot her towel.
Ahhh the hot pools. Ask directions and you find them - the girls did. Don't ask directions and you get luke warm - boys.
The evening air was warm and smelt of jasmine as we returned to the site.
I can't remember what we ate that night. We were clean and tired but so relaxed, our 04.00 start that morning seemed a life time away. We crawled into our tents exhausted and had the best night's sleep we had had since we began our adventure.
Actually the campsite did have a shower and a toilet. Mixed, but we were getting used to this now. However the door to each cubicle was constructed of barely opaque vanity glass and the toilet kitted out with the latest must have accessory, a giant plunger!
The trip to the hot pools was a short three minute walk across the site, unless you are Penny who did it twice because she forgot her towel.
Ahhh the hot pools. Ask directions and you find them - the girls did. Don't ask directions and you get luke warm - boys.
The evening air was warm and smelt of jasmine as we returned to the site.
I can't remember what we ate that night. We were clean and tired but so relaxed, our 04.00 start that morning seemed a life time away. We crawled into our tents exhausted and had the best night's sleep we had had since we began our adventure.