Our challenge was to ride 500 km across beautiful Costa Rica in aid of 'Dignity in Dementia' at Poole Hospital from 3-12 April. Back home and mission accomplished, we are publishing below our daily diary and photos as quickly as we can sort out the photos!
Click on any photo to enlarge it.
Click on any photo to enlarge it.
The thing you notice most about Costa Rica is the wildlife - it's amazing. The variety, the colour and the noise. The dawn chorus is incredible, a cacophony of sound, which starts just before dawn and echoes across the landscape. It's difficult to describe, we even attempted to capture the sounds on mobile phones, but sadly without success. As we rode further into the tropical uplands and rainforests the bird song was joined by troops of howler monkeys. Their deep throaty calls resonating from tree top to tree top. One starting, another joining, followed by yet another troop. Meanwhile, and not wanting to be left out, the local domestic cockerels added their crowing. Oh and the dogs did I mention the dogs?
What a damn racket - don't they know it's not light yet and all we want to do is sleep!
What a damn racket - don't they know it's not light yet and all we want to do is sleep!
The trouble with wildlife is its very camera shy, despite our best efforts, focusing and framing. By the time we had done all that the animals had moved; refocus, moved, refocus, click - blurred picture.
Mark however had more success. He is captivated by birds and butterflies. His technique was; spot a bird or butterfly, stop, dismount while removing your backpack; bike falls to the ground while searching for binoculars; drop suncream while walking; drop backpack (anywhere it doesn't matter); watch bird/butterfly totally oblivious to anything else. Photograph - some really good shots too.
Then, realise you are way behind everyone else; pick up backpack disgorging the rest of its contents; leave your belongs scattered, including on one occasion the bike helmet, as you make haste to catch up.
At this rate Mark is strongly at risk of achieving national treasure status.
Then, realise you are way behind everyone else; pick up backpack disgorging the rest of its contents; leave your belongs scattered, including on one occasion the bike helmet, as you make haste to catch up.
At this rate Mark is strongly at risk of achieving national treasure status.
Once again an early start. We were becoming used to them now and after a good night's sleep we still looked and felt exhausted. Never mind. We had camped at the foot of the Arenal volcano. The volcano is very photogenic, so time for a photo opportunity.
Volcano with vapour plume, or with morning mist or even with Beto and Luisca doing (very) early morning bike maintenance. The bikes really did take a pounding - literally, so maintenance was a frequent occurrence. Our bikes were cleaned and oiled and pimped like Luica's bus. Just look at those tyres.
Volcano with vapour plume, or with morning mist or even with Beto and Luisca doing (very) early morning bike maintenance. The bikes really did take a pounding - literally, so maintenance was a frequent occurrence. Our bikes were cleaned and oiled and pimped like Luica's bus. Just look at those tyres.
There's nothing like a jolly good sing-song to lift the spirits so courtesy of Daren, we serenaded him at 05.00 with a rousing version of happy birthday.
We breakfasted well, pancakes and fruit. It would set us up for at least two hours when we would stop again for a refuel.
The day started with a hill......but today was different. Undulating for miles through farm land, lush and tropical and small villages on to the wide plantations of banana, mango and pineapples. A day we enjoyed, seeing a multitude of wild life, animals and birds. It was definitely easier but hot, 21c at 08.00 and our first stop at a shop for a drink. Most of today was on paved road - tarmac. A rest for the arms and the hands and areas susceptible to chafing.
The roads were busy, very busy, a main highway traversing Costa Rica. The arteries used by the mega trucks transporting their produce for export. 'If a truck is coming towards you and one is approaching from the opposite direction, get off the road', advised JC; 'There's not enough room for you and the trucks'. He was right. As the trucks passed the vacuum pulled you towards them.
We breakfasted well, pancakes and fruit. It would set us up for at least two hours when we would stop again for a refuel.
The day started with a hill......but today was different. Undulating for miles through farm land, lush and tropical and small villages on to the wide plantations of banana, mango and pineapples. A day we enjoyed, seeing a multitude of wild life, animals and birds. It was definitely easier but hot, 21c at 08.00 and our first stop at a shop for a drink. Most of today was on paved road - tarmac. A rest for the arms and the hands and areas susceptible to chafing.
The roads were busy, very busy, a main highway traversing Costa Rica. The arteries used by the mega trucks transporting their produce for export. 'If a truck is coming towards you and one is approaching from the opposite direction, get off the road', advised JC; 'There's not enough room for you and the trucks'. He was right. As the trucks passed the vacuum pulled you towards them.
However on the smaller unmade dirt roads, the routes from the plantations, many would slow to crawl so as not to make too much dust as you rode into their slipstream. The drivers were friendly and would hoot, wave, smile and cheer as they passed.
We were a fast group and arrived at the lunch stop three hours early. A habit we continued for the next few days. Amazing, pitch up at a cafe three hours ahead of schedule, 'Can we have lunch now?'. Chicken, fried cauliflower in batter, ground beef, carrots and beans, plantain, pasta, salad, bananas, pineapples, mangoes and fruit juice. Sure. Lunch at 10.45! It was sooo tasty.
We left the little cafe in the real heat of the day. You could feel the heat from the tarmac searing your legs and scorching your arms. Coated in liberal helpings of factor 50 we set off having ditched the 'camelback' in favour of more frequent stops and refills to our drink bottle from the bus.
A stop at another shop for bananas, banos (toilet), drinks and ICE. A short but hot uphill ride then off road and into the real banana plantation country.
We left the little cafe in the real heat of the day. You could feel the heat from the tarmac searing your legs and scorching your arms. Coated in liberal helpings of factor 50 we set off having ditched the 'camelback' in favour of more frequent stops and refills to our drink bottle from the bus.
A stop at another shop for bananas, banos (toilet), drinks and ICE. A short but hot uphill ride then off road and into the real banana plantation country.
We would explore banana country properly tomorrow but today we enjoyed the flowers and the scenery.
A stop this time for an ice cream and Penny, never one to miss a photo shoot, snapped me taking her, taking me!
Distance = 70 Km, total ascent = 450, 80% paved 20% dirt.
Distance = 70 Km, total ascent = 450, 80% paved 20% dirt.
We arrived at camp four, a large sports hall with football pitch where a group of local seven year old boys were already enjoying a game. After stowing the bikes in the hall and unloading the bus, the boys had an opposing team - bigger but not quicker.
We had to pitch our own tents. It was still hot and we considered we had earned a rest and a beer .....or two. The girls drank beers while the boys played on.
The decision was made to pitch the tents, it was now or in the dark. Remembering we had had a tent pitching lesson a couple of days before, you would expect the procedure to have been second nature. A hard day's cycle, a rest in the sun and a few cold beers do not make for effective tent pitching. We giggled our way through it and somehow, at last it was done.
However the others had despaired at our antics, pitched their tents and gone off in search of the showers.
We had to pitch our own tents. It was still hot and we considered we had earned a rest and a beer .....or two. The girls drank beers while the boys played on.
The decision was made to pitch the tents, it was now or in the dark. Remembering we had had a tent pitching lesson a couple of days before, you would expect the procedure to have been second nature. A hard day's cycle, a rest in the sun and a few cold beers do not make for effective tent pitching. We giggled our way through it and somehow, at last it was done.
However the others had despaired at our antics, pitched their tents and gone off in search of the showers.
There were indeed a couple of options, one indoors in the sports hall and one across the football pitch in what looked as if it might be a pavilion or club changing room.
There were marked similarities between the two. Both had hose pipes with a cold water feed. However one had a hand-held spray facility - the indoor one.
I don't remember the reason why we chose to use the 'shower' in the building across the football pitch but must it must have been a really good one. The 'pavilion' turned out to be nothing like a pavilion. The shower facilities were in a converted and refurbished cow byre but before it had been converted and refurbished.
There was a slight nod to luxury; a few stacks of plastic moulded patio chairs so at least you didn't have to put your clothes, towel or toiletries on the floor.
In fact I don't think it really was a shower facility at all but I am dammed if I can think what else it might be useful for. In any case the options were limited, as we were all sweaty, dirty, dusty, coated in sunblock and insect repellent, it was shower or, well it doesn't bear thinking about.
There were marked similarities between the two. Both had hose pipes with a cold water feed. However one had a hand-held spray facility - the indoor one.
I don't remember the reason why we chose to use the 'shower' in the building across the football pitch but must it must have been a really good one. The 'pavilion' turned out to be nothing like a pavilion. The shower facilities were in a converted and refurbished cow byre but before it had been converted and refurbished.
There was a slight nod to luxury; a few stacks of plastic moulded patio chairs so at least you didn't have to put your clothes, towel or toiletries on the floor.
In fact I don't think it really was a shower facility at all but I am dammed if I can think what else it might be useful for. In any case the options were limited, as we were all sweaty, dirty, dusty, coated in sunblock and insect repellent, it was shower or, well it doesn't bear thinking about.
And then there were the toilets. Again there was a choice. We chose not to use this one!
While waiting for dinner a large moth flew in and settled on the floor not too far from where we were all sitting. Penny, who dislikes moths with a passion was all for leading us in a conga style party dance, arms flaying, running and screeching into the night.
Mark, however chose a more pragmatic approach, searched for his camera, not in sight, grabbed his phone and made an attempt to photograph the beauty. After a quick 'how to' lesson and another attempt.......
Mark, however chose a more pragmatic approach, searched for his camera, not in sight, grabbed his phone and made an attempt to photograph the beauty. After a quick 'how to' lesson and another attempt.......
...the result was stunning.
As it was Daren's birthday naturally there was a celebration. Dinner of pork chops, vegetables and heaps of creamy mash, then birthday cake, (more singing) and rum............which accompanied the beer and wine already in circulation.
By the way I have just found a pair of spectacles Mark had mislaid. They are on the table next to his Birds of Costa Rica book. Was this the first or second pair he lost.
It was late (for us) at least 20.30. We had yet another early start, back to the football field, our tents and to sleep.
Morning came all too quickly along with the birds, the howler monkeys, the cockerels, the dogs and the very large trucks which had traveled along the road 200 yards from our tents throughout the night.
Good morning Costa Rica.
By the way I have just found a pair of spectacles Mark had mislaid. They are on the table next to his Birds of Costa Rica book. Was this the first or second pair he lost.
It was late (for us) at least 20.30. We had yet another early start, back to the football field, our tents and to sleep.
Morning came all too quickly along with the birds, the howler monkeys, the cockerels, the dogs and the very large trucks which had traveled along the road 200 yards from our tents throughout the night.
Good morning Costa Rica.